Ons & Cies Islands | Spain – How to visit, ferry, other tips

Visitar as Ilhas Cies
Visitar as Ilhas Cies

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Galicia has some islands worth visiting, which are part of the Atlantic Islands National Park. There are four islands in this park, although you can find many others along the Galician coast:

  • The Cies Islands, which, in my opinion, are the most beautiful (located at one end of Vigo estuary).
  • The Island of Ons.
  • The Island of SĂ¡lvora (in the Arousa estuary, belonging to the province of La Coruña).
  • And the Island of Cortegada.

Of the four, I have visited the first two: the Cies Islands and the island of Ons, and I know that access to them is relatively easy. This article is dedicated to these two islands.

The islands offer excellent summer activities and have magnificent trails for those who enjoy hiking. They also have precious beaches to relax by the sea, in a peaceful and tranquil environment.

Location of the islands belonging to Galicia’s Atlantic Islands National Park

Other useful articles in this blog:
1 - Things to do in Santiago de Compostela
2 - Things to do in Galicia
3 - Things to do in Vigo
4 - Things to do in Pontevedra
5 - Things to do in La Coruna
6 - Things to do in Viana do Castelo
7 - Things to do in Braga
8 - Things to do in Porto
9 - Things to do in GuimarĂ£es
10 - Peneda GerĂªs National Park Itinerary
11 - Douro Valley Itinerary
12 - TrĂ¡s-os-Montes Itinerary
13 - Things to do in Esposende
14 - Things to do in Barcelos
15 - Things to do in Arcos de Valdevez
16 - Things to do in Caminha
17 - Things to do in Valença
18 - Things to do in MonĂ§Ă£o
19 - Things to do in Ponte de Lima
20 - Things to do in Matosinhos
21 - Things to do in Vila do Conde
22 - Things to do in PĂ³voa de Varzim
23 - Things to do in Vila Nova de Gaia
24 - Minho | Northern Portugal Itinerary
Note that Portugal has an island that bears striking resemblance to the Ons and Cies Islands: Berlenga Island, located in Peniche, offers a similar experience. Have you had the opportunity to visit yet?

When to visit the Ons and Cies Islands?

These islands are a summer destination, without a doubt! It’s best to go from June to September when there are daily boat crossings from different boarding ports in Galicia, such as Vigo. The beaches on the islands look like paradise, but the water is cold, so you won’t want to swim in them unless it’s really hot. The hiking trails can be done at any time of the year, although they require some effort, so be prepared with lots of water, a hat and plenty of sunscreen, and a few snacks!

Follow this link if you want to find out more about how to get to the island of SĂ¡lvora and the island of Cortegada. I've never visited them, so I can't help you any further on that. I know they are much more restricted than the other two, so my advice is to ask either at the interpretation center in Vigo or the entities that promote regular transportation to the Ons and Cies islands.

How to get to the Ons and Cies Islands?

When it comes to reaching the Ons and Cies Islands, I’m sorry to say that you should take into consideration some bureaucracy. You need to collect some authorizations before getting on the boat, and even plan other aspects of your trip before traveling there.

1. Are you going to camp on the Ons and Cies Islands?

First, you will have to decide if you are going to camp on the islands or just visit them for a day. I did not camp on the islands, but I can help you with information on how to do so. To camp, you have to reserve space in their campsites. Follow the links below to learn more about them and the conditions they practice. The websites are very clear and explicit with information!

On the Ons Island, it is also possible to stay in small tourist accommodations, but at much higher prices. It is not something that can be found on booking websites, so the ideal would be to contact the island’s restaurants directly, which can help you get in touch with the right people! đŸ˜‰

2. Request authorization to visit the Ons and Cies Islands

Once the decision to camp (or not camp!) has been made, it is necessary to request authorization to visit the Ons and Cies Islands through the portal of the Galician Government. This authorization has been required since the summer of 2018 in order to control the number of accesses to the islands and thus protect them against the negative effects of mass tourism.

In the image below, you will see a screenshot of the beginning of the authorization request process. First, you select the date you want to visit the Ons or Cies Islands (checking for availability of authorized regular transport), then you indicate the number of people in your group, and finally you enter your personal information and the information of those people traveling with you. The response to the request will be sent to your email.

Start of Authorization request to visit the Cies Islands
Start of Authorization request to visit the Cies Islands

3. Book a boat to visit the Ons or Cies Islands

As soon as you have the authorization to visit the Ons or Cies Islands, you will need to choose your port of embarkation, and there are several options for that: the most popular ones are in Portonovo, Sanxenxo, Bueu, Cangas, and Vigo. All of them are located in the Galician province of Pontevedra.

Usually, the Port of Vigo is used to reach the Cies Islands, and the Port of Portonovo is used to reach the Ons Island. That’s what I did! đŸ™‚ Each island requires at least a full day, so you’ll need to plan for 2 days to visit both islands.

There are several companies providing the crossing, and below are the main ones where you can make reservations and check prices, schedules, and conditions. đŸ˜‰ You always have to book the boarding time and the return time from the island.

Note that reservations and authorization requests must be made with enough time in advance, as the islands are very popular in the summer months, and vacancies fill up quickly. For those going to the islands for just one day, it is ideal to take the first boat in the morning, returning on the last one, but you must be very careful with the return call, as people crowd the island’s dock at the end of the day, and everything can become very confusing for foreigners that don’t understand spanish well!

Arrival to Cies Islands
Arrival to Cies Islands
One of the boats crossing to Cies Islands / Ons Island
One of the boats crossing to Cies Islands / Ons Island

4. Decide how to get to the Boarding Pier for the Ons or Cies Islands

If you are visiting the Ons or Cies islands from Portugal, remember that in Spain you are one hour ahead of Portugal, so you will have to consider the new time zone on the day of your trip. đŸ˜‰ The boat won’t wait for you, you have to wait for the boat!

To get to Galicia, access is easy from northern Portugal. If you’re driving, there is a highway to Valença (A3), and after crossing the border, you have the AP-9 to Vigo. If you want to go to Portonovo and Sanxenxo to catch the boat to the Island of Ons, you can continue on the AP-9 after Pontevedra, and then take the AG-41. We’re talking about half an hour from Valença for the first case, and about an hour for the second.

If you are already in Galicia, for example in Santiago de Compostela, consider the same roads: AP-9 and AG-41. Almost an hour for both places: Portonovo and Vigo.

If you don’t have a car, follow the link below to book one. And don’t forget to get travel insurance for this adventure to the islands of Galicia. đŸ˜‰

>>> Rent a Car with Discover Cars

>>> Take out Travel Insurance with World Nomads.

When you arrive in Vigo, it will be unlikely for you to find free parking near the boarding pier, but there is paid parking in the nearby shopping center, although it’s a bit expensive to pay for the whole day. đŸ˜‰ I chose this option when I decided to visit the Cies islands.

In the case of Portonovo, to visit the island of Ons, I managed to find free parking nearby without much difficulty, but I arrived very early in that morning! I believe everything will depend on the time you arrive, for both cases!

Crossing between Faro Island and Monte Agudo on the Cies Islands.
Crossing between Faro Island and Monte Agudo on the Cies Islands.

5. Sleeping in Galicia to visit the Ons or Cies Islands

For those arriving from nearby locations (other parts of Galicia or even from the north of Portugal), it is quite possible to do the trip by car, without staying in Galicia for the night. But of course the trip will be less tiring if you stay sleeping in the region of Vigo or Sanxenxo.

For example, you can opt for the following accommodation suggestions:

Things to do in Cies Islands

Boarding in Vigo, don’t forget to visit the Interpretation Center of the Atlantic Islands National Park. An excellent way to get to know the territory better.

The Cies Islands are a group of 3 islands: Monte Agudo, Faro, and San Martiño, but you only have public boats to the first two, which are actually connected by the sand of the beach of Rodas. I didn’t visit San Martiño, and most people don’t visit it also, as you can get there only by private boat.

The Cies Islands are among the most visited tourist attractions in Galicia, with the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela obviously taking first place. In ancient times, the Romans claimed that they were the “islands of the gods”.

Viewpoint of Alto do PrĂ­ncipe in the Cies Islands
Viewpoint of Alto do PrĂ­ncipe in the Cies Islands
Viewpoint to the Island of San Martiño
Viewpoint to the Island of San Martiño

Main tourist attractions to visit on the Cies Islands

  • Rodas Beach, which has been considered the best beach in the world by the British newspaper The Guardian.
  • The lighthouse on the island of Faro, with the zigzag trail uphill to it, and with excellent views of the island of San Martiño.
  • The top of Pedra do CampĂ¡, for one of the excellent viewpoints on the Cies Islands.
  • Faro da Porta, also on the island of Faro (optional).
  • Our Lady Beach, an excellent option for diving and to do other water activities, such as snorkeling.
  • Figueiras Beach or AlemĂ£es Beach, where many people practice nudism.
  • Margarida and Cantareira beaches, for greater exclusivity.
  • Alto do PrĂ­ncipe, in my opinion, the best viewpoint on the islands.
  • Optionally, visit also Faro do Peito, and observe the Atlantic coast from there.
Rodas Beach on the Cies Islands
Rodas Beach on the Cies Islands
Trail to the Cies Islands lighthouse
Trail to the Cies Islands lighthouse
Viewpoint from Pedra do CampĂ¡, on the Cies Islands
Viewpoint from Pedra do CampĂ¡, on the Cies Islands
Island of San Martiño
Island of San Martiño
Our Lady beach on the Cies Islands
Our Lady beach on the Cies Islands
Crossing from Faro Island to Monte Agudo on the Cies Islands
Crossing from Faro Island to Monte Agudo on the Cies Islands

The 4 Trails of the Cies Islands

For your reference, walking to the lighthouse on the island of Faro is about a 7km round trip. The hike to Alto do PrĂ­ncipe is 3km, and the hike to Faro do Peito is almost 6km. I recommend using the morning to hike the trails of the Cies Islands and the afternoon to relax on one of its beaches.

There are 4 distinct routes on the Cies Islands, each identified by a respective color. Don’t forget to request a map of the island upon arrival. The most important trails to me are routes 1 and 3, because of their viewpoints!

Map with the trails of Cies Islands
Map with the trails of Cies Islands

1. Route 1 of Mount Faro on the Cies Islands

  • This is the longest trail on the Cies Islands, with a length of 7.5 km.
  • Moderate difficulty.
  • Starting point: Rodas Dock, near Rodas Beach.
  • Main Points of Interest: Lago dos Nenos and crossing to the island of Faro, Nature Interpretation Center, Our Lady Beach, viewpoint for the island of San Martiño, Pedra da CampĂ¡ and viewpoint, Cies Islands lighthouse.
  • Duration: 2h 30m.

2. Route 2 to Faro da Porta on the Cies Islands

  • This trail is 5.2 km long, but some stages overlap with the previous one. In my opinion, it is only optional compared to routes 1 and 3.
  • Easy difficulty.
  • Starting point: Rodas Dock, near Rodas Beach.
  • Main Points of Interest: Lago dos Nenos and crossing to the island of Faro, Nature Interpretation Center, Our Lady Beach, viewpoint for the island of San Martiño, Faro da Porta, Castro das Hortas.
  • Duration: 1h 45m.

3. Route 3 to Alto do PrĂ­ncipe on the Cies Islands

  • This route takes place on the Monteagudo Island, with a length of 3.5 km.
  • Low difficulty.
  • Starting point: Rodas Dock, near Rodas Beach.
  • Main Points of Interest: Alto do PrĂ­ncipe viewpoint, which, in my opinion, is the most beautiful when visiting the Cies Islands. It also passes by Figueiras Beach and Silla de la Reina.
  • Duration: 1h 15m.

4. Route 4 to Faro do Peito on the Cies Islands

  • This trail takes place on Monteagudo Island, with a length of 5.6km. It has some stages in common with the previous trail, so if you combine them, you can reduce the total distance of them. However, for me, it’s an optional trail when visiting the Cies Islands.
  • Difficulty level is low.
  • Starting point: Rodas pier, next to Rodas Beach.
  • Main points of interest: Figueiras Beach and Faro do Peito. From there, you can see Ons Island in the distance, as well as Cape Home and Facho de DonĂ³n. I mentioned these places on my article with things to do in Vigo, check it.
  • Duration: 1 hour and 45 minutes.

Things to do in Ons Island

Ons Island, though not as grand as Cies Islands in my opinion, is still worth a visit. I chose to visit it from Portonovo, near Sanxenxo, as mentioned earlier. If you have the time, you can visit both islands over a weekend in Galicia. Interestingly, Ons Island is still home to a few families of fishermen.

Trails on the Island of Ons | Galicia
Trails on the Island of Ons | Galicia

Main tourist attractions to visit on the Ons Island

I leave you with several recommendations for what to do on the island of Ons:

  • Enjoy the nudist beach of Melide.
  • Visit the village of Curro and the beaches of As Dornas and Area de Cans, near the Ons Island pier and therefore the most easily accessible.
  • Explore the beaches of Canexol and Pereiro.
  • Go to the viewpoint of “Fedorentos” with views of the island of Onza or Onceta.
  • Visit the “Buraco do Inferno” (Hell’s Hole).
  • Pass by the lighthouse on the island of Ons.
  • Simply walk around the island of Ons: I did it and loved the hike.
Melide beach
Melide beach
Beach of Area de Cans almost deserted on the day of my visit
Beach of Area de Cans almost deserted on the day of my visit
Canexol beach on the island of Ons
Canexol beach on the island of Ons
Viewpoints near the southern tip of Ons Island
Viewpoints near the southern tip of Ons Island

The 4 trails of Ons Island

I want to point out that a round trip to the Viewpoint of Fedorentos and Hell’s Hole can reach more or less 6km. Similarly, visiting the lighthouse can require 4km. My hike around the island was about 13 or 14 km since I connected the various trails into one. Below I will give you a general description of the Ons Island trails, each associated with a color.

Map with the trails of Ons Island
Map with the trails of Ons Island

1. South Route of Ons Island

  • Length of 6.2 km.
  • Moderate difficulty.
  • Starting point: Ons Island Information Stand, near the island’s pier.
  • Main points of interest: Area de Cans Beach and Canexol Beach, the fishing villages of Ons Island, the Viewpoint of Fedorentos and the Hell’s Hole.
  • Duration: 2 hours and 30 minutes.

2. North Route of Ons Island

  • Length of 8.1 km and elevation gain of 100m.
  • Moderate difficulty.
  • Starting point: Ons Island Information Stand, near the island’s pier.
  • Main points of interest: the north coast of Ons Island, passing through the Xubenco and Centolo Capes, and returning through Melide Beach.
  • Duration: 3 hours.

3. Lighthouse Route of Ons Island

  • Length of 4 km. I recommend not doing this trail, adding in turn a detour on the previous route to visit the lighthouse.
  • Low difficulty.
  • Starting point: Ons Island Information Stand, near the island’s pier.
  • Main point of interest: the lighthouse on Ons Island, one of the lighthouses with the greatest reach in Spain. It is located at the highest point of Ons Island, at the top of Mount Cucorno.
  • Duration: 1 hour and 30 minutes.
Lighthouse on Ons Island
Lighthouse on Ons Island

4. Castle Route of Ons Island

  • Length: 1.1 km. I recommend not taking this trail and adding in turn the old battery of the Castle of Rodas to the North Route of Ons Island.
  • Low difficulty.
  • Starting Point: Information Stand of Ons Island, near the island’s pier.
  • Main Points of Interest: Dornas Beach (named after ancient boats called like that), picnic area, and the viewpoint of the Castle of Rodas.
  • Duration: 40 minutes.

Other travel tips to visit the Ons and Cies Islands

  • Always buy your tickets online and never leave the purchase for the day of your visit, as it’s likely that there will be no tickets available for last-minute purchases at the ticket office, especially during July or August.
  • Wear comfortable shoes for hiking. A hat will also be useful due to sun exposure!
  • Bring a towel and swimwear to enjoy the beaches. Don’t forget sunscreen!
  • There are restaurants on the Cies Islands and Ons Island, but I opted to have a picnic. How about doing the same and saving some money? Don’t forget to bring water and take all your trash back with you to the mainland!
    • Restaurants on the Cies Islands – O Serafin, near the campsite, and Rodas, near the islands pier.
    • Restaurants on Ons Island – Casa Checho and Casa Acuña, near the pier and Dornas Beach.
  • Respect the seagulls and their habitat.
WARNING! I would like to emphasize again the need to obtain permission from Galicia Government to visit the Cies Islands and Ons Island! Without it, you won't be allowed to board the boat!

Visit the Cies Islands on an Guided Tour

You can also visit the Cies Islands on an excursion with Get Your Guide or Civitatis. Always do your own research on the respective websites, but below I’ll leave you some suggestions for those departing from Santiago de Compostela, the heart of Galicia.

You can also book boats directly with Civitatis, taking care to ensure that the authorization to access the islands will be requested.

More useful info on this blog

I hope you have an excellent stay in Galicia, while visiting the Atlantic Islands National Park. Both Ons and Cies Islands are perfect destinations for your trip in the north of Spain. đŸ˜‰ Tell me about your experience bellow, and be sure to reach me if you need any help planning.

Other useful articles in this blog:
1 - Things to do in Santiago de Compostela
2 - Things to do in Galicia
3 - Things to do in Vigo
4 - Things to do in Pontevedra
5 - Things to do in La Coruna
6 - Things to do in Viana do Castelo
7 - Things to do in Braga
8 - Things to do in Porto
9 - Things to do in GuimarĂ£es
10 - Peneda GerĂªs National Park Itinerary
11 - Douro Valley Itinerary
12 - TrĂ¡s-os-Montes Itinerary
13 - Things to do in Esposende
14 - Things to do in Barcelos
15 - Things to do in Arcos de Valdevez
16 - Things to do in Caminha
17 - Things to do in Valença
18 - Things to do in MonĂ§Ă£o
19 - Things to do in Ponte de Lima
20 - Things to do in Matosinhos
21 - Things to do in Vila do Conde
22 - Things to do in PĂ³voa de Varzim
23 - Things to do in Vila Nova de Gaia
24 - Minho | Northern Portugal Itinerary

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